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Tertiary Aromas in Wine: Madeirizing
Wine aging process is the intentional cooking of wine. This practice causes what is known as Maillard reaction. This is a chemical reaction between amino acids and sugars, which produces a distinct caramel and toffee aroma. Madeira wine is the best known example of a wine that is aged in this way. In fact, this process of repeatedly heating wine is often called Madeirizing.
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Truffle flavors can dominate delicate, neutral white wines and, the other way round, they can be overpowered by very floral, perfumed whites or bolder, concentrated and youthful reds. So, I would stay away from excessive fruitiness.
One of the main things I would keep in mind is the development of wine.
I’d try to find the one with some [bottle] age, so it can express earthy, mushroomy aromas – to reflect the savoury character of truffles – while still being able to complement/stand up to the main element of the dish (fish, meat, vegetable or even chocolate).
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It all depends on the main element of the dish.
If it’s red meat, for instance, I would recommend 15+ year-old Douro JAVALI , RCV or Alentejo CARTUXA because of the earthy, mushroomy character of the wines – that can stand up well to the intensity of truffles – as well as their tannins and acidity that would cut through the texture of the meat.
If it’s fish-based dish, I would either go for some softer, yet balanced and well-aged Alentejo from South Region or nicely-evolved, textured dry Semillon from Esporao for example their PRIVATE SELECTION (PALATE: Creamy, rich and intense. Long, deep and persistent finish) or Cartuxa's PERA MANCA 95 pointer for only $91.70 🤩 . This variety is so versatile, especially when revealing its aromatics and complexity in a beautiful way.
Many people ask what to serve with truffle risotto. Here I would go for something slightly bolder and creamier and, at the same time, fragrant enough to balance this savoury dish. I had a great experience with Setubal BACALHOA Palace Semillon, Alvarinho, Souvignon Blanc, a Elegant, not-too-oaky, in the mouth; elegant and with great depth, with a strong structure and body.
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As for the reds, I would be careful with youthful, fruit-driven, powerful reds – for example – Barossa Shiraz, California Zinfandel or Mendoza Malbec. These wines will work very well with many other dishes, but truffle-based ones need something more subtle and more savoury.
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